Day 74: Zero in Daleville

It is amazing what a bath, delicious non-hiker food, and sleeping on a mattress with extra pillows does to restore a bit of sanity. Combine that with not having to worry about running out of water, or food, or storms, or bugs, and this zero is pretty much a slice of heaven.

I heard about the car crashing into the Trail Days parade in Damascus - so scary. I hope that everyone who was injured is ok. I am thankful that the people we have been hiking with recently are all ok. I'm also glad that we didn't go to Trail Days this year - what a bummer.

I am feeling better. OWL & I decided to change the plan slightly, to slow down a little (yet again) and try to get to Front Royal by June 5, instead of Harper's Ferry. That will send us home for break after completing the portion of the AT that runs through Shenandoah National Park, which is supposed to be easier (graded) terrain, with beautiful views and good access to campgrounds with burgers and milkshakes.

My body is so tired. Without my pack (and my sticks), I hobble instead of walk. My right knee is still sticking & popping, but it's not exactly *painful* like I can't bear weight on it, it's just stiff and sore. My toes tingle all the time, even at night. I have been getting shin splints frequently. But - this sounds weird - in some ways I feel stronger than I have in years.

My game plan is this: I am going to make it to Front Royal, and go home for two weeks to relax and recover as planned. If my body 'bounces back' and seems to recover after some time off, AND if I miss hiking the AT, I'll come back and finish. If either one of those things turns out not to be true, I'll stop this adventure for now.

That sounds fair, right?

Tomorrow we're doing a big day out of Daleville on fresh legs. Tuesday the high is supposed to be in the high 80s, so we're planning a short 10 mile day to a campsite near a swimming hole. Then we'll go from there. 

Day 73: Lambert's Meadow Shelter to Daleville

Jeremiah & OWL decided to get up at 6:15 to be on the trail by 7...I decided to get up a little earlier to take my time. Got up around 5:50 and puttered around. I like waking up slowly. Ate a Little Debbie cherry pie - thanks to Wildcat back in Maryville for that tip. They have about 450 calories - perfect for breakfast when combined with my protein powder drink. 

Jeremiah & OWL took off - I stayed in the shelter & talked on the phone with AWE for a few minutes while she was on her way to work. (Normally I would NEVER EVER talk on the phone in a shelter...especially at 7am...but I was the only one there!)

The walk into Daleville was pretty easy - a little rainy, a little foggy, not many views. Saw some pre-teen kids out scrambling around on the rocks. They told me about a trail they'd found that shows you a great view of the whole valley - "for if you come back...good luck!". Cute.

Listened to last week's This American Life podcast - had a story about a guy who walked across the US on a whim. His last words in the story...keep walking...seemed significant. Not much to look at on the walk today so I had lots of time to think. I have to be careful - I can make lots of justifiable excuses for coming home that no one would argue with - probably not even myself. But I need to give myself a chance to rest before I really think about it much further.

Just before I got to Daleville, I came across a honeysuckle 'forest' with honeysuckle bushes in bloom on both sides of the trail. I LOVE honeysuckles and hadn't seen any yet this year. I just stood there in the midst of one of my favorite smells...and took deep breaths. (Even had a few drops of honey). Then it started to rain, so I hurried the last half mile into town.

The hotel is about 100 yards from the trail - really convenient. OWL & I got separate rooms - I need some alone time to relax completely. Took a shower, started laundry, went across the street to Pizza Hut for lunch, came back to the room and soaked in an Epsom salt bath while watching episodes of the Office on my phone. I am so tired. Am definitely taking a zero tomorrow to rest.

 

 

Day 63: Woods Hole Hostel to Pearisburg

10 miles

It is pretty easy to walk in the cold miserable rain when you have a prize waiting for you. AWE will be here today! You have no idea how excited I am (and how excited OWL is to see her partner, AT).

We left the hostel at the last possible moment - around noon - to put us in Pearisburg a little before AWE & AT. M80 & Trooper were planning on spending the night in Pearisburg, and said we were welcome to stop by their hotel room to take a shower before we left to go to civilization...Blacksburg. Honestly I don't remember that much about the walk - I was a focused walking machine! Everything was super foggy - until the last 3 miles when the fog and rain started to clear. We saw some great views from Angel's View, and as we descended into Pearisburg the light in the forest was amazing. A sign of good things to come, I am certain!

We stopped by M80 & Trooper's room - it was really psychedelic! The hotel didn't have any rooms left, but they had a former game room they were planning on setting up as another room...they brought a bed/dresser/tv/chair in to this very colorful room, and M80 & Trooper were glad to have it!

After I showered, we went across the street to the Mexican restaurant for margaritas. I texted AWE & AT to let her know we had a change of location, but neither of them texted me back. About 10 minutes later, they walked into the restaurant! It was amazing to see AWE. I missed her so much.

We had drinks (Trooper had the LARGEST DRINK OF ALL) and ate dinner. And then we drove to Blacksburg for 3 days of R&R.

 

 

 

Day 51: fat tire blazing on the Virginia creeper trail

My toe did not want me to walk on it today, so we talked about taking another zero. Owl said she had heard a couple people we had been hiking with talk about hiking the Virginia creeper trail (a rails to trails conversion) up to where it intersects with the AT, because it is really pretty. After we both agreed that sounded like a pretty good idea, it was a very small leap to make the decision to rent bikes and bike down the trail into Damascus. Then tomorrow we will get a shuttle to where it intersects the AT, and hike on from there.

I had a fantastic time biking down the mountain. The trail goes downhill almost the entire way, so it was a very easy ride. The weather was perfect (low 60s and sunny), and we laughed and played like kids all the way down.

Once we got back into town, we rode out to the "welcome to Damascus" sign, where Hammer, Mallet, and friends were hanging out. Mallet threw a frisbee to Owl on her bike, and she *almost* caught it!

I had the most awesome helmet hair ever.

We ate lunch at the blue blaze cafe (gain!), then went back to the room to get the bounce box and box o stuff for home ready, then to the post office. Stopped at the outfitter so Owl could check for more mail - she had 5 more cards yesterday and one more today - then back to blue blaze for happy hour.

Saw m80 and trooper at the outfitter; m80 had the hiker virus so they are taking an extra zero tomorrow. Poor guy!

My toe still hurts but I am hoping by tomorrow the swelling will go down and it won't hurt to walk. Aw yeah, I'm a dreamer!

Day 50: Zero in Damascus

Yesterday was so full of excitement that we didn't have time to get our normal town chores done. So, we went to the laundromat, went by the outfitter and got a new pair of shoes AND a goretex jacket on clearance (woohoo). Then Comet called and said there was an all you can eat chinese place in Abingdon, so I went to eat about 2pm. We had such a good time hanging out...an old lady at the next table walked up to Comet and said "is this your son or your grandson? I am having such a good time just watching you two talk to each other". The short hair strikes again!

As a disappointment to hikers everywhere, I only ate one plate of delicious Chinese food (it was piled super high, though). Stopped at cvs and got a new knee brace...then back to Damascus. I did another load of laundry, then limped back to the room.

Day 49: Abingdon Gap Shelter to Damascus, VA!

11.3 miles

Woke up around 4am and sat for a bit to watch for Lyrid meteors - saw a few and went back to bed.

We all wanted to get into Damascus for breakfast, so Big Yank set his alarm for 6am (he wanted nature sounds so the alarm was ducks.) We were on the trail at 7.

I knew of a big surprise - OWL's friend Bill was going to meet us in Damascus for her birthday - and so I was doing my best to send texts about our progress. Originally I thought we would be there by noon or 1 but at the pace OWL/Shutterbug/Techie/Big Yank were going, I knew they would be there sooner. My feet hurt pretty bad so I slowed down and didn't even try to keep up. I got to the Virginia border and they were still there! Took a few photos and had a wig of Big Yank's 40 mile beer, then said "Hey Owl, I really want to walk into Damascus with you". She said "ok, you lead". So off we went - me in front with OWL, Shutterbug, Techie, Big Yank, and Smiles behind. We sang songs at the top of our lungs most of the way down...Bohemian Rhapsody, Ring of Fire, etc...had a really good time.

We were really booking it down the mountain and got into town about 10:45. Didn't see Bill but we stopped to take pictures at the "Welcome to Damascus" sign. Bill pulled up in his van, rolled down the window, and said "Hey little girl do you want a ride?" and then laughed. OWL didn't hear him, so he repeated himself. She looked at me kinda confused and said "That sounds like Bill!"....then looked around and saw him. It was awesome.

We went into town and stopped at the Blue Blaze Cafe for breakfast. Bill brought a chocolate cake and candles, so we had cake for an appetizer. Then we all ordered the "Iron Mountain Breakfast" - 5 pancakes, layered with sausage and bacon, 3 eggs on top, with potatoes around the side. An amazing hiker breakfast. I did not finish mine.

Found a place to stay - a room with two twin beds (awesome!), and then went to the outfitter. As soon as OWL asked for her packages, the outfitter said "hey, we are happy to see you...do you have a hand truck?" We went to the back and she had 22! pieces of mail (three of which were our regular maildrop). She was so excited! And the outfitter was also excited because now the mailroom had room for other hiker packages.

We went to the b&b to unpack. OWL took first shower, and after she got out and started opening her prizes I started untaping my feet. My pinky toe on my left foot smelled like death. Very sore and red and swollen and tender...so I took a shower and then off to the doctor I went. Thankfully they saw me (even thoguh it was very close to closing time), gave me an antibiotic shot and a prescription, and sent me on my way.

Met up with Comet, a Damascus native I met through metafilter, and we talked for a bit at the b&b. UV and Whole Bean showed up with Mazey (who had attracted a very enthusiastic fan dog)...they were trying to find some place to camp and Comet let them camp in her yard under her apple tree! What an awesome lady.

Went to $1.50 taco night at Blue Blaze Cafe, where I ate 5 tacos and some fries and a beer (Fat Tire, as usual). Comet & I had a little mini mefi meetup! (No shots, though). Super fun to hang out with locals and get to visit a little bit.

Whole Bean ate 12 tacos! - he looked like crap afterwards (hah). The cafe is connected to a bar, and the crew from the shelter was singing karaoke. So we ran over to the bar and sang Bohemian Rhapsody - MUCH easier with the words on a screen!

Said goodnight to Comet - we are going to hang out tomorrow also, I think - and went to bed. What a great day.

Day 38: Rice Gap stealth camp to Sam's Gap

3.5 miles

Good news: my tent kept me dry.
Bad news: Peepaw, Rooster, and Rabbit are sick.

I really hate breaking down camp in the rain. I have a waterproof stuff sack for my tent, so a soaking wet tent does not get everything else in my backpack wet, but it is still a disgusting mess. Hiked in the rain and the fog. Of course OWL was ready way before me and left.

For whatever reason I had a really hard time with the hike today. I know the weather has a lot to do with it, but I was just exhausted from the almost 17-mile hike the day before, I was frustrated with not being able to keep up with OWL, and I wanted to go home. Called AWE when I had service and she reminded me that the "Appalachian Trials" book says - if you are considering going home, get off the trail as soon as possible and get into town to relax. So, I did.

I hiked to Sam's Gap, There was trail magic! And the legendary Miss Janet was there, to shuttle the sick boys to Erwin and some others to a hostel in the mountains. I asked if there was room for me in the shuttle, and she said "why don't you go enjoy the breakfast by Quiet Paul, and I'll come back after dropping these guys off to get you".

Quiet Paul has thru hiked twice - once in 2007 (NOBO) and once in 2009 (SOBO). Quite a story - he owned a business, and one of his employees came to him and asked if his job was secure because he wanted to buy a house. Paul said yes - your job is secure - no problem. And then the market tanked and there wasn't any work. So rather than lay people off, Paul took himself off the payroll and hiked the AT. When he got back, they had won a majority of the jobs they had bid and business was great. What a super guy.

He was cooking eggs and hashbrowns, and had sodas, muffins, and chocolate chip cookies. I ate my share, and sat on the hillside as the sun came out. Paul said that there was someone a few days ago who got off the trail and everyone was like, "oh that's so sad!". I almost cried right there, sitting on that hillside in the sun.

When I called AWE, P. (her mom) talked to me for a minute. She said she knew what it was like to be physically weaker and slower than others. But that she was stronger in other ways, and that when she did complete something physical she had a great deal of pride in doing it. Said I was the strongest of anyone in her circle and she knew I could do it, but I had to do it in my own time and she loved me no matter what I decided.

Just when I thought Miss Janet had forgotten about me, she showed back up with Peepaw and Rooster still in tow. She is a true angel of the trail - took us to the outfitters (to pick up maildrops) and then the grocery store and then bp and then the other grocery store and then to the post office and then to the super 8 and finally, to the holiday inn.

I talked with her just a bit. She is going to slackpack me tomorrow so I can stay on track with OWL. When I told her about having trouble keeping up with OWL she said - yeah, doing the AT as a partnership is hard. She asked if I was prepared to do it on my own - I said yes, but I didn't really want to. She said - if you're going to quit make sure you decide to quit on a beautiful day on top of the mountain.

So this I promise: If I decide to quit, I will do it on a beautiful day on top of a mountain.

I felt so much better just talking with her about it. I *hate* being on a tight schedule and feeling like we are so far behind (although, the reason we are behind is because we got stuck in Fontana for 4 days). I am so stressed out every day, wondering if I am going to make it. Knowing how hard I try, OWL is faster at getting ready, faster at walking, faster at everything. I will never be faster. I will always fail.

Except that, I am not failing. I am hiking the Appalachian Trail! I have hiked over 300 miles so far and I am still going. I am stronger every day, even if I don't feel like it going up these hills. I am stubborn. I can do this.

The trail always gives me what I need..

I need to talk with OWL about how my body is telling me to slow down. To take it easy. To enjoy my hike. I want to take breaks during the day instead of eating snacks on the run. I want to meditate every day, like I did at home. I don't want to worry about being behind. I mean, I am on vacation! No one is paying me to be out here.

And so now I sit in the Holiday Inn Express laundry room, waiting my turn.

Day 34: Zero in Hot Springs

Woke up in luxury (so to speak) and went to the lobby for breakfast. Free breakfast! Could this place get any better?

Drove back into Hot Springs - stopped at Dairy Queen for breakfast (peanut buster parfait FTW). Sorted through the mail drop at the "cabin". (OWL, SilverStreak, Old Goat, & I were splitting a "cabin" - the "cabin" is in quotes because it is really just three very small beds, a table, and a bathroom with a foldable magnet door. No linens or pillows. Apparently "resort" means something different in Hot Springs than it does in the rest of the world.

Went to the outfitters but escaped with minimal damaged; picked up an extra mouthpiece for my camelback since mine is always falling off. AWE is going to ship me my superfeet that I left behind - more often than not my feet are the sorest thing on me when I get to camp. Didn't buy convertible pants...AWE is going to ship me shorts. Also surprising - I have not lost any weight. But I am definitely losing inches and I feel pretty great. I was hoping to be the exception to the "women don't lose a bunch of weight on the AT" but I guess I am not.

Had a great lunch with Joel & the crew, then he left to go back home.

Next up: soaking in the hot springs! They pump mineral water from the hot springs into jacuzzi's, and at the end of your hour the water drains out. It wasn't super hot, but it felt great. I could have gone again, if time had allowed.

Megan (remember her? She rescued us from Fontana and loaned me her goretex jacket) rode her bike up to see us again. It was so nice to spend the evening with friends. We went to dinner and then sat on the porch drinking whiskey. OWL read us a hilarious story from her hometown newspaper about a little girl getting bit by a possibly rabid fox...while making her way between buildings at church. You can't make this stuff up, folks.

I feel totally refreshed and - although I am sore and blistered - feel ready to continue the journey.

One sad note - SilverStreak is returning home for a few weeks to take care of some business. He'll return to the trail when he's finished, but he'll be behind us. Maybe we will meet up again in Virginia somewhere.

Day 33: Walnut Mountain Shelter to Hot Springs

approx 14.1 miles (the AT runs through the middle of town...so...)

Woke up early - excited to meet friends and be in town. Had a nice hike in, despite a nasty blister on the 4th toe on my right foot. Feels like the toenail is coming off and there is a blister underneath the toenail, that extends on top of the toe. And of course the bottom of the toe is also blistered. It's a mess.

It was warm out today! I was drinking lots and actually ran out of water. (You know how a few days ago I said the sound of air being let out of the sleeping pad was the saddest sound in the world? The water reservoir gurgling dry is the second saddest).

Pretty sure I saw a bear today. I was hiking a few minutes behind OWL & SilverStreak, and saw/heard something large and dark moving in the rhododendron & brush to my right. I thought it was Streak, taking a break. But then I followed the trail, and Streak's backpack was nowhere to be found. So - no photo or up close & personal meeting - but I'm pretty sure it was a bear.

Saw Clever Girl, DumpTruck, Apollo along with Hot Dog and Whistle. They were slackpacking into Hot Springs - Hot Dog got sick in Walnut Mountain Shelter a few nights ago so they split up her stuff and carried it down to Garentto Gap. So now they are making up the difference. Said we made the right decision to delay entering the Smokies...said it was miserable "but we're alive". Yikes. That's one way to look at it.

Got into town...picked up maildrops...stopped to do laundry...got a shower...and then Joel was here!! So good to see him. Decided to go into Asheville for dinner and beer. We went to Wicked Weed Brewing Company for great beer (delicious IPAs), and dinner fit for a princes. Homemade fries with french onion dip, a pork chop with roasted brussel sprouts and homestyle potatoes, plus bison chili. Yum!

Afterwards Joel got me a room at the hotel he was staying at, and drove me to CVS to get Epsom salts. Friend + Beer + Dinner + Soaking Bath + a bed with a pillow = a very happy zag.

The only downside - I have never felt more like a homeless person in my life when Joel was checking me into his hotel. There I stood, all my possessions in a Sea to Summit eVent bag, standing awkwardly to the side while Joel asks if they have any more rooms available. Pretty funny. :)

Day 27: zero in gatlinburg

We weren't planning on taking a zero in Gatlinburg, but we weren't planning on arriving in Gatlinburg on Easter, either. OWL had some medication waiting at the pharmacy...which was closed on Easter and didn't open until 11 today. So rather than hike 3 miles today and 7 miles tomorrow, we are just taking a zero and hiking 10 tomorrow.

First we ate breakfast at an all you can eat breakfast buffet. I ate so much fruit. I had some "regular" breakfast food too, but mostly I just ate fruit. I crave veggies and fruit a lot on the trail...because I am eating junk food all day long.

Then to Walgreens, for the pharmacy.

Then, back to the NOC. Laura found me some cute earrings to wear. I wanted a pair of crampons but they were all out. Not a big deal, saved me some money and weight I guess.

We figured out that our mail drop was actually waiting for us at the post office. So we took the trolley to the post office. Our trolley driver Helen was a real sweet older lady. A kid on the trolley started asking us where we were from...we said Birmingham and Helen piped up "and they walked here!" She has section hiked over 600 miles of the AT. It was awesome to talk with her about her favorite parts.

The post office was right across the street from a grocery store...so I finally got that fried chicken I have been dreaming about for weeks. I told OWL "this is what I have been hiking for". Totally worth it.

We also stopped by the liquor store and picked up a bit of scotch for our last few days in the smokies!

OWL had a serendipitous moment. We were looking for something to read in the magazine recycling dumpster outside the post office, and she found a Cowboy magazine. The magazine had a feature article about an area in which one of her best friends has a cabin. It was a neat moment; one that says all is well with the universe.

Mellow mushroom for dinner, and then I have a hot date with some Epsom salts and the bathtub.

Here's how you spot a thru hiker in town:
Expensive but minimalistic hiker clothes
Crocs
Probably smells a little even if freshly showered and laundered
Eats everything in sight
Totally overwhelmed by tourists and/or grocery stores
Always looking for wifi
Walks funny, like maybe they are missing a 35 lb backpack that they love with all their little hiker heart
No bag or accessories of any kind, except maybe a USPS priority mail box which will be carried under one arm like a prize