Day 76: Wilson Creek Shelter to Jennings Creek campsite

17 miles
Hard day today. My knee is really bothering me. Last night it locked as I was rolling over in my sleeping bag, which was pretty freaky.

I've been trying to fill up on water at every opportunity, so I was planning to go off trail 0.2 miles to get to the first shelter. When I got to the turnoff, I saw Owl had left me a note that there was water 0.1 mile north on the AT. Cool! Walked ahead...it was only a trickle but it was enough. I stopped for a snack and then went on.

Today I crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway for the first time on foot. It was pretty foggy so the views weren't that great. The best thing about the BRP is that there are trash cans at the road crossings! I sat down for a moment by one to call AWE and whine about my knee. I don't really know what to do about it. It is pretty slow going today as my knee hurts and ibuprofen wears off.

Caught up to Owl, M80 & Trooper at Bearwallow Gap - they had stopped to soak their feet in the creek. I talked with Owl a bit, about maybe taking a break to rest my knee. She asked if I'd be willing to shuttle around a section to give my knee time to rest, I told her I'd think about it. As you may have figured out, I'm not exactly a purist but I don't want to just blatantly skip sections of the trail, either.

I had just 6 miles to go to Jennings Creek, a swimming hole near a road, with a guy who shuttles just a few miles away. Put on some tunes to help pass the time and hiked on. Saw two more huge black snakes (they are very long!) - even though I don't think they are poisonous I like to give them a wide berth. Got to the creek about 6:30 - enough time to do laundry and have a bath in the river. Talked with M80 for a bit - turns out Trooper is hiking with a partial meniscus tear, and M80 said her doctor said if her knee starts locking up she needs to get off the trail and get it checked out. If the meniscus tears fully, you aren't able to walk (and crawling to a road isn't my idea of a good time). Told Owl I was going to shuttle around and maybe slackpack her until I could go home on the 6th and get it checked out. She was like - don't make things complicated...just go home and get it checked out now. Captain Obvious, that one.

So, I had just enough service to text AWE to see if she could book an award ticket home from Roanoke. Sure enough, one was available. And a guy was available in Roanoke to shuttle me, too. (Side note: I have tons of frequent flyer miles, and AWE's insurance only pays 65% of cost 'out of network'. So it made sense to go home to get it checked out by someone 'in network'...MRIs are expensive...)

I had a nice evening by the creek...gave away as much food as I could...went to sleep with the sound of the creek as white noise. Woke up early to see Owl & M80 & Trooper off...and waited for the shuttle guy. While waiting I discovered that, while I had clean socks & underwear & a mostly clean shirt I'd used only for sleeping in, my pants stunk super bad. They didn't stink too bad for hiking...but definitely too bad for a 'real world' airport situation. Luckily Homer the Shuttle Driver was a super nice guy, and had time to take me by a Goodwill so I could get a pair of jeans. Homer, his wife, and their two kids (at ages 8 & 10) hiked the entire AT a few years ago. They even wrote a children's book about their experience. Pretty neat guy.

And that is the story of how I ended up in the Roanoke airport, with only a nalgene bottle for a carry on.

 

 

 

Day 70: Sarver Hollow Shelter to Trout Creek

14.8 miles

Very hard day today. I miss AWE a lot, and the terrain today is harder than it's been in a while. Two big climbs, one late in the day, and some tough rock slicks that weren't well-marked. I almost got lost twice: once I went downhill for a few yards before seeing sticks laid across the trail in the universal sign for "you're hiking the wrong way". The second time the trail disappeared - big drops all around me - until Stumbles came by and climbed up 5 feet to a rock ahead. New rule of hiking: when in doubt, climb up!

Went over the eastern continental divide. Neat.

The climb up Brush Mountain was steep and long. I was worried I was going to run out of water - it is getting hotter, and I sweat a LOT. (Even when it is 40 degrees outside, I am covered in sweat within minutes of hiking uphill). After 70 days (!) on the trail you'd think I'd be acclimated to hiking uphill...but I am not. (Or - I just sweat a lot). So I am drinking a ton of water and taking electrolyte tablets in hopes of staying hydrated. Today I drank 5.5 liters of water, and was still thirsty afterwards.

I met Greyhound on the climb down - he has a twisted ankle and was taking it a step at a time going down. Asked him where he was headed for the night and he said - headed to water first, then I'll decide if I'm going the extra mile to the shelter. I thought - man it would be nice to camp by the creek - but knew that OWL wouldn't stop there because she had set her destination as the shelter. Got down to the creek and saw a bunch of folks from last night. Thought - I hope OWL is still here but she is probably at the shelter. Then I looked over to the other side of the creek and saw her sitting there, with her tentpad laid out. I was so happy I cried - literally - and said "I am so glad to see you!". She said - "well the shelter was 0.3 miles off the trail, and the water was 0.2 down steep switchbacks from there, so I was glad to save those steps and camp near the creek."

I went to the creek and drank a bunch of water, took a bath, and rinsed out my clothes. Set up my tent, ate as much food as I could stand for dinner (AWE sends me grape leaves sometimes which are heavy but an AMAZING treat), and went to bed happy and tired and full.

 

 

 

Day 69: War Spur Shelter to Sarver Hollow Shelter

12.7 miles

Slept badly, again. Either this bag is NOT a 45 degree bag, or it is getting really cold at night. Last night I put on my puffy jacket, my rain pants, and used the hot water bottle trick. Even with my silk liner I was still cold. But I wasn't as cold as the night before...there is hope.

Not sure if it is the lack of sleep but today was hard. Left camp about 8:30 - immediately had a creek crossing. Saw a note that said "successful crossing of a swollen creek: advance two spaces" - pretty funny. On the second creek crossing I totally slipped on a rock and fell face-first into the creek. Both feet were submerged, my face was just inches from the rushing water, my waist was bent over a pointed rock...NOT how I wanted to start my hike! Laid there for just a second to catch my breath and then pushed myself upright onto a big rock before stepping onto the bank. My left side is pretty banged up; my arm hurts when I use my trekking pole and my ribs hurt, but nothing is broken. And, as a special bonus, the pocket my phone was in didn't even get wet! (Lots of people have otterboxes for their phone; I just have a regular case and put it in a ziploc bag when it's raining. This is a fine plan except when you fall into a creek!)

There was one big climb early on, with lots of rocks. Met Tribe, a SOBO hiker, who was very encouraging..."just keep trudging, there's trail magic ahead!". Found a rubbermaid container with lots of empties and four COLD sodas. (One good thing about it being so cold the night before: the sodas were cold!). Took my pack off and sat down for a minute while I had a delicious orange soda. I'm feeling very defeated today - probably because of the creek crossing - or maybe I'm just really missing AWE again.

When I got to the top of the climb, I almost passed by the Kelly Knob view, but then thought...I have walked up this mountain, I'm going to see the view even if I have to walk a bit further off the trail! It was really gorgeous - I could see for miles - and I also had cell service! Called AWE and talked to her for the first time since Pearisburg. 

Got to the designated lunch spot just as OWL was getting ready to leave. "You need to learn how to walk faster!", she said. Yeah...thanks.

While eating my lunch I made a list of everyone I can think of who is rooting for me. Then I listened to Toots & the Maytals while walking...sang loudly...felt better. Kept trudging. Saw a huge 300 year old tree (the Keffer Oak) - pretty neat - but also sad that there aren't very many "old" trees along the AT. Another steep climb...then walking on the ridge...then half a mile of steep switchbacks down to the shelter. This shelter is probably the nicest one I've seen so far - I'm guessing it gets very little use because it is so far off the trail. But I am glad to be here for the night. I am tenting again - mostly for warmth but I am also enjoying having my own personal space in the tent...I sleep better in the tent for sure.

Here with owl, team onyx, stumbles, her bf, and a couple others tenting.

The water source for this shelter is by some old abandoned buildings - can't find any information about them but one appears to be a cabin and all that remains of the other is two chimneys.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 68: Pine Swamp Shelter to War Spur Shelter

12.5 miles

Well, it did get below freezing last night and I slept like crap. II was a little better once I put on my puffy jacket, but I still had the whole body shivers a few times during the night. OWL & I both slept in late and left camp about 10:30. 

Harder day today than yesterday, even though yesterday was a higher mileage day. Lots of rocks on the trail today; the unevenness makes for very slow walking, and their hardness hurts my feet. We also saw snow flurries - TWICE - so I am second guessing the decision to send home my warm bag. The seams on my new liner socks hurt my pinky toes (even turned inside out). But - I made it to the shelter fine. Phoenix is here again tonight - said she was planning to go to the next shelter but it is at a higher elevation (ie, colder) so she decided to stay here for the night. And Etch-A-Sketch showed up at the shelter with her dad (who lives nearby) and her dog, SamWise, with homemade chocolate chip cookies! They went very well with my beef stroganoff (which was part of a care package put together by some awesome coworkers). They sent me lots of goodies which AWE is sending a bit at a time - I'm very thankful for their thoughts and support!

It is supposed to be cold again tonight, so I am tenting in hopes that it will keep me a little warmer.

 

 

Day 57: Relax Inn (Atkins) to Knot Maul Shelter

13.9 miles

Saw the Virginia Creepers before we left "town" - they were resupplying out of a car parked at the Relax Inn. Thanked them for my surprise and felt inadequate; I don't think I properly conveyed how amazing their gift was. 

OWL got a ride to the post office with one of their group, and I started hiking about 11, knowing OWL would catch up to me in no time. A really pretty walk today through fields and cow pastures and forest. Got to Crawfish Trail Campsite and saw Smiles there. He was trying to decide whether to stay the night, or push on to the shelter. A decision we all have to make every single day. There was a cool little rhododendron "house" for a small rock cairn on the firepit. Clevergirl & crew were there last night, looks like something Otto would make. It was really impressive - put together like a log house with joints and cuts in the wood.

I left Smiles there, and started the climb up to the shelter. Lots of fence stiles in this area; I have finally gotten the hang of climbing up, turning around on top of the stile, and climbing down. One area had lots of cows hanging out by the river, but they were nice cows and let me pass without any problems.

Strained my knee a bit going up steps after the Holston River Bridge, so it was extremely slow going from there on out. Went about a mile to a campsite - tried to text OWL to let her know I was spending the night there but didn't have any service, so I trudged on...slowly. My knee panged with every step, and I was going under 1mph. Finally got to the shelter about 7:30pm - the latest I've ever gotten to the shelter but still an hour before dark. More than enought time to get water, set up the tent, cook dinner (my favorite: loaded baked potatoes), and then go to bed. All The Way, GrandBob, Hammer, OWL, Loco Pony & Hummingbird are here, along with two section hikers. I am worried about my knee - it is a little swollen - it doesn't feel collapsed or weak so we'll see how it feels tomorrow.

Day 40: Erwin -> Beauty Spot Tentsite

12.2 miles on trail + 1.2 mile walk from hotel to trail

Took our sweet time getting ready to leave town - we were hoping to meet Old Goat's wife when she arrived to pick him up but she hadn't arrived by hotel checkout time...so off we went.

We saw three deer in the woods right outside of Erwin - pretty neat to see wildlife. The trail crossed a railroad track, and then went uphill out of Erwin. We stopped at the first shelter outside Erwin to have a snack - saw Whole Bean & UV & their dog Mazey - then kept going. We made excellent time but a storm started blowing in. By the time we got to Beauty Spot (a bald overlooking Erwin), the storm was here. We set up camp at a campsite near the road - there was a nice water source, and other people were there also so it felt pretty safe. Once again I was able to get my tent set up before the storm hit - I've been really lucky so far. Cooked dinner in my vestibule (the small space created when the rain fly of the tent is staked out) - and went to bed.

A really great day - hiked on and off with OWL all day.

Day 37: Blackstaff Cliffs campsite to stealth camp before Rice Gap

16.8 miles (whoa)
Longest day yet and boy do I feel it! Got up pretty early and started hiking. A beautiful (but rocky) climb up to Firescald Knob - the views contained 360 degrees of beauty. I got completely lost on the summit to Big Butt Mountain. The trail came down a rock jumble and you could either continue going down, or go back up to the ridgeline over rocks. I started going up the rocks, but it was pretty strenuous and I didn't see any white blazes. (On rock jumbles there will often be blazes on the rocks to show you the way). Turned around and I saw a blaze on a tree - so thought I must have just missed it before and the trail was headed downhill. Well....the blaze I saw was meant for Southbound hikers to mark the trail. I went about 30 yards down the mountain before thinking, "this is more bushwacking than I expected". So turned around, climbed back up the summit to where I *knew* the trail was, and tried again. Still no luck. As I was getting ready to head back up the rockpile, two more hikers came by. So I just followed them. :) Sure enough, about 20 feet up the rock jumble you could see a white blaze.

I was pretty freaked out. Despite my name (zag - because I sometimes go the wrong way) - I haven't been lost in a very long time. (Like, since the 2nd day before I knew that double blazes meant...a change is coming! Pay attention!). So I listened to Leonard Cohen to calm my nerves.

Walked down a long fire road and made ok time. Stopped for a snack at Jerry's Cabin Shelter (in the vicinity of the shelter, not actually IN the shelter like some hikers).

The trail was very scenic and it felt great to take my time and just enjoy the day. There were some sections through pastures, others through balds, others right next to stream cascades. I knew there was a thunderstorm supposed to hit tonight, but I figured I had plenty of time to get to the campsite before it hit.

Then by the time I started up the mountain, the storm clouds were moving in fast. I could feel the change in the air - more humid, a little colder - and knew I had to get a move on to the campsite. Since the campsite didn't have water, I loaded up with 3L more water...call me zag the camel for the second day in a row.

I was so afraid that the storm was going to start while I was on the ridgeline, but there was nothing to do but walk as fast as I can. I texted OWL to see where she was - she couldn't find the flats (there is no "welcome to Big Flats" sign on the trail), so she was hiking on to find where others were camped. Finally I found them, 0.2 miles from Rice Gap. Put up the tent in a hurry - the rain started about 15 minutes after I got set up.

Had tofu curry for dinner. The curry was delicious but the tofu did not rehydrate well. Another lesson learned.

Day 36: Spring Mountain Shelter to Blackstaff Cliffs campsite

11.9 miles

Another long day, as has become the norm. Left camp by 8:30am. Hiked uphill (how am I still so miserably slow on uphills?). It was so hot - and my shorts are in Erwin - so I stripped down to my compression shorts and was very comfortable. Sorry, fellow hikers.

Got to the Little Laurel Shelter and saw a note about the hiker virus: "puke and feces everywhere in and near the shelter". Yeah...not going anywhere near that place. The forest service had issued an alert that norovirus was affecting hikers between Hot Springs and Erwin, and that hikers should avoid the shelters, privys, and (generally) all contact. There were all sorts of hiker rumors about people getting sick left and right. So we got water (and treated it, as usual), and ate lunch nearby with Goat, BearCub, and Sriacha (who is on his second bottle).

OWL called with a surprise - the forest service had closed the trail a few miles before the Jerry's Cabin shelter (our destination for the night), and was shuttling people around to Big Butt Mountain. I didn't ask why - assumed it was because of the hiker virus. So after a leisurely lunch we had to hike hard to get to the shuttle point.

We got to the Jones Meadow campsite and I was surprised to see so many people there. They said that the trail was closed due to a controlled burn, and that the FS was allowing people to camp right where they closed the trail but there wasn't any water. They also said that the FS *was* running shuttles around, but that you had to hike 5 miles up Big Butt Mountain to return to the AT.

That didn't sound like much fun, but I wanted to catch up to OWL. So I loaded my 3L nalgene water carrier, and my 2L camelback, and my 1L nalgene...yes, 6L of water at 2.4lbs per L...and started the 1.5 mile hike. Got to a trail intersection and saw a walkie talkie on the ground. So I stopped and waited for a few minutes - sure enough a ranger came by and said the trail was closed. They actually brought up a bunch of water for the folks who were camped there...ah well, I would rather be prepared (with extra water for my friends) than dependent on the kindness of rangers.

Set up camp next to OWL, Old Goat, M80 (who received his name when he threw a firecracker at a bear...the bear dropped his food bag and ran away), his wife Trooper, and their dog Willow. Took forever to eat my dinner...I wasn't very hungry but food is fuel. Had a celebratory nip of scotch for our 300 mile mark. Watched the sunset and went to sleep.

Day 35: Hot Springs -> Spring Mountain Shelter (tenting)

11 miles

What a long hot day; the first really hot day we've had. Left Hot Springs at 9am; I was pouring sweat before I had walked the first mile. I am fighting a bit of dehydration - having some mild GI issues - but have been trying to drink lots of water & supplement with electrolyte tablets. Still, hot and sweaty is no fun.

Ate lunch by this little fishing pond/dam. Lots of frogs and fish visible in the water.

Saw my first snake today - the first one so far. A 4-5 foot long black snake sunbathing across the trail. Surprised me! He slithered off - think I surprised him too.

Lots of flowers and blooms today. I think spring is finally here!

I was exhausted by the time I got to the shelter. It was a small, nasty shelter and there was a weird dude there (ection hiking). So we tented close by.

Day 31: Standing Bear Hostel to Brown Gap Campsite

9.8 miles
Took another shower this morning at the hostel because it felt so good! My clothes are all stupid stinky, though.

As usual, a good night's sleep is followed by a hard climb out of the gap the hostel/town is in. I called AWE as soon as I thought I might have service and talked with her for about 40 minutes. It is so good to hear her voice.

Caught up with Goat and walked with him for the climb up the mountain. Even after all this time I am still so slow at uphill climbs! You would think I would be in shape by now...well....I am in better shape than I was before but I still have a ways to go before I am running uphill.

About two miles from the summit, I started noticing the trees were covered in ice. Shortly afterwards I noticed that the trees were dropping HUGE CHUNKS OF IC EVERYWHERE. I guess the rain storm we experienced the night before was an ice storm at the higher elevations. The trail had a bunch of recently downed trees, broken by the weight of the ice, that made navigating the trail difficult. Oh and did I mention the softball sized (and larger) chunks of ice falling from the sky? I got hit in the arm & back three times but not in the head. (Could a falling chunk of ice knock you out if it hit you in the head? Seems like the sort of thing Mythbusters should figure out).

Finally made it to the summit of Snowbird Mountain and the (still icy) grassy bald. Immediately dropped my pack and had a quick lunch. Goat started up the trail, but (as usual) I was taking my time getting ready to go. BearFoot showed up - we were quite relieved to be out of the icy woods of doom - and we talked for a minute. The sky started to clear up - first just a peek of blue sky, then actual sun! It was amazing. It was as if a switch had been flipped, and the day went from miserable to incredible in just a few minutes. It was a gift.

We walked to the top of the bald together, then turned around and took pictures. You could see the fog moving across the bald, following the path the ice storm must have taken. On the other side of the bald, the trees had no ice.

Got to the shelter and OWL was nowhere to be seen. Tex said he saw a note for us on the shelter sign that said she was going on to a campsite three miles up the road.

I was super unhappy about it. We had talked before (on the other occasions she skipped ahead) about how I would like to at least be involved in the decision to skip ahead, since I am always the one playing catch up.

So, catch up we did. Made camp. SilverStreak made a fire, which was really nice, and brought a beer from the hostel to split. OWL contributed some whiskey. Had a fun time hanging the bear bag (my first try the rock bag twirled around the branch and got stuck). Silver Streak & OWL helped me get it loose. SilverStreak is so very unimpressed with the PCT method to hang a bear bag.

Talked with OWL about the plan. About how I like reaching the destination and I don't like it when I find out at 4pm the destination for the day has been changed. She said - I knew it would make you mad but I thought we could get more miles done which would make for an easier day tomorrow. No matter what, I have your best interests at heart.

So there we stand.

Now, sleep.