7 miles
I wasn't sure what was going to happen today. I posted on WhiteBlaze to get some opinions about when to enter the smokies, and I did indeed get a bunch of varying opinions. We had a tough time getting any information about trail conditions from the backcountry office, and didn't see any reports from hikers who had left earlier in the week. We also talked about getting a shuttle around the Smokies, and OWL was on the phone getting shuttle prices when a ridgerunner came into the lodge lobby. He reassured us about the weather (only getting nicer) and the trail (the snowplow is done; it will be icy in the morning and muddy in the afternoon). He did say that not having gaiters was a "gross miscalculation". But, off we went.
Immediately my right foot started hurting. It was hurting at the lodge but I guess I figured it would be better supported in the boot. Wrong! It hurt with every single step. I must have strained a ligament in my ankle during our 16 miles slackpack a few days ago. I kept thinking...what am I getting into? I am headed into the Smokies...in the snow...and now my foot hurts? Goat kept saying, just make it to the campsite and you can see how it feels tomorrow. So I kept on.
We saw a ranger, who didn't specifically ask us for our GSMNP thru hiker permits, but he did ask us specific enough questions about the process that he knew we had done it.
We also met a bunch of haggard looking folks headed southbound to Fontana. Turns out there were more than 36 people stuck in the first shelter in the Smokies, Mollie's Ridge, for two days. I am so thankful that we stayed at the lodge! But - it didn't do anything to help assuage my anxiety about the situation.
OWL & Streak went on ahead but Goat stayed with me, and was so encouraging. I kept thinking I needed to turn back before it was too late, before we got too far in, before we got stuck, before my ankle went crazy. But I made it.
We got to the campsite and cleared off space for our tents. Somehow I had good enough cell service to text, and had a little come apart via text with AWE. She is so supportive and encouraging to me.
So far the trail has been incredibly hard, physically and mentally. I think we probably started too early - the cold is so tiresome and it's hard to get started in the morning and daylight is limited - but there's nothing to do about it now. And I am tired of my body hurting in new spots every day (OWL calls these the ache of the day). But - as AWE pointed out - I have made it to the planned destination each night. When we get to Gatlinburg we will have hiked over 200 miles. It has been hard, but I have done it, and parts of it have even been fun! Hopefully in a few weeks the weather will warm up and that will make things easier.
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