Day 19-21: More Zero Days at Fontana Lodge

We've been waiting on the weather to clear in the Smokies for what feels like forever. OWL is restless and ready to get out of here. I, on the other hand, am just fine relaxing by the fire, reading a book, in order to not be completely miserable out on the trail.

Yesterday we had a special treat - Megan from metafilter drove up to meet us & took us into town for errands and dinner. She is super nice and it was a great diversion. We drove to town on the "Tail of the Dragon" 2 lane road; 318 curves over 11 miles...that was quite a ride!

First we went to the outfitters, where I got a foam pad to put under Princess. Two of the guys working at the outfitter had thru hiked the AT, and after asking if we'd had any trail magic that day Wildcat went to the back and got us each a cold microbrew. Then - as if that weren't enough - he walked us over to the gas station and bought us Little Debbie chocolate pies! Said they are perfect trail food - high calories, pretty light, you can burn the box they come in. Can't wait to try it out.

Then on to a brewery for lunch. It was great to have some comfort food - mashed potatoes, bbq chicken, and beer. Megan told us about a get-the-stink-out detergent used by hunters, so we stopped by Walmart to pick some up. Then (after she found out my rain jacket wasn't goretex) she volunteered to give me her extra goretex jacket for the hike. We stopped by her place on the way back to the lodge to pick it up. How awesome is that?? I am comfortable with the idea of trail magic as food or snacks or rides - but not yet accustomed to people being so incredibly nice and offering up their time and possessions to help me on my journey. It is a very humbling experience.

This morning there was a great controvery about whether or not we should stay (my vote) or go (everyone else's vote). Yesterday when I talked with the guys at the outfitter, they both said to wait another day. Snowman (the only person here at the lodge who has been through the Smokies multiple times) said he was waiting at least another day, and maybe until Thursday. And so, after talking with the backcountry office & spending an hour or two trying to get ridgerunner reports, we decided to stay. I know OWL is anxious to go, but I don't want to posthole (step through fresh snow) my way through the Smokies. Plus, my lungs don't like the super cold air.

The weather is supposed to get better tomorrow. I really hope it does. I don't think I can talk the group into staying yet another day.

P.S. I think we made the right decision. The GSMNP twitter feed is reporting that 6 miles from our current location (and at a relatively low elevation) there is a foot of snow on the trail, and 3 foot drifts. Doesn't sound like much fun.

One other thing we learned by calling the ranger station is that the road from Newfound Gap to Gatlinburg is currently closed due to icey road conditions. So we may not be able to resupply in Gatlinburg after all. We picked up some extra food that should take us all the way to standing bear hostel, (the ifirst mail drop outside of the smokies) if needed.